Back in London now, and I’m already missing New York! Is it possible to live in both cities at the same time please?! I didn’t expect it to be so cold (if you saw mountains of snow on TikTok, yes, they’re real and were on pretty much every sidewalk), I had big plans on what I wanted to do, but spent my time catching cabs door to door. Shows made the cold worth it. It was a very good lineup in New York this season, let’s unpack.
Showlist
Maria McManus presentation — heirloom crochet work (homage to her grandmother’s table linens) and Aran knits in a gentle palette moved closer to Maria’s Irish roots. And yet, shown against Pierre Chapo and Charlotte Perriand furniture in a downtown New York gallery, the collection felt perfectly at home — a balancing act between romance and masculine tailoring.
Rùadh presentation at Twenty Two — the cult-favorite heavyweight Japanese denim (Quinn jean, specifically) tried to steal the show again, but Jac Cameron is expanding her work, for me it was the cashmere offering and her take on the tuxedo shirt — which Jac was wearing herself — that really stood out.
Colleen Allen — already known for balancing drama with wearability, Colleen drew her inspiration from Louise Bourgeois home images this time. Bustle bags, velvet coat, cocooning gowns that don’t feel costumery, everything intentionally wearable.
To my London girls, Colleen Allen already stocks with NAP and selling out fast, I’m hoping to see more of her soon.
Tibi — Amy Smilovic, like many, didn’t shy away from going down memory lane — ‘90s minimalism particularly. But she stayed true to the brand’s ethos of garment modularity: blazers that transform into blouses, apron skirts that can be worn over trousers or on their own. Just a few pieces of the puzzle.
Heirlome — Alongside impeccable tailoring, tassels and draped gowns, artisanal collaboration with Mexican artist Angelica Morelos is responsible for the conversational print.
Grey’s — Emily Grey is determined to offer the best possible practical knitwear and silks inspired by couture. Her cashmere coats and jackets don’t need lining — the fabric is thick and high-quality enough on its own. One to watch for refined minimalism.
6397 — showed lots of good classics for fall. Cozy, functional, with a pinch of grunge. My heart went to the tweed skirt suit and raw edge knitwear right away.
Around City
Mr Chow (Midtown) — felt like dining in old New York, nostalgic in the best way.
Café Chelsea — the Chelsea salad on the brunch menu is the definition of a good big salad.
Nami Nori (West Village) — temaki bar I visit at least once every time I’m in New York.
Bar Pisselino — met girls for cocktails. The mini sandwiches were exquisite.
My daily coffee came from Fellini.
Made a trip to Whitney Museum for Calder’s Circus and Isamu Noguchi sculptures.
Looks Lineup
Maria McManus trench coat; Maria McManus bandana; Neous bag; Vincent Boulevard sunglasses; Khaite pumps; Toteme trousers.
Jacquemus top; Toteme trousers; The Row pumps; The Row silk bag (no longer available, but here’s beautiful option from Sophie Buhai).
The Frankie Shop coat; The Row pumps; Phoebe Philo bag; Uniqlo turtleneck; Toteme skirt; Saint Laurent sunglasses.
Leset dress; Juju Vera Elena cuff; The Row pumps.
By Malene birger shirt; Phoebe Philo classic jean; Khaite boots; Toteme shearling scarf; Juju Vera Elena cuff & Athena necklace.
440ME knit shirt; Uniqlo turtleneck; Dehanche belt; Phoebe Philo classic jean; Khaite boots.
Toteme coat; Almada label cape; Toteme turtleneck; The Row silk bag; Khaite pumps; Toteme trousers.
Shopped & Found
Went to Khaite for Kerrie jean (I sized up), but also found the coat/jacket I can’t stop thinking about now.
Juju Vera — being consistently sold out on Nap and Moda Operandi, I went straight to the source. It was a very special visit, stepping into Julia Ferentinos’ creative world. The studio felt as special as her jewellery. Vintage furniture, moodboards and Julia herself wearing (I’m speculating here) a vintage robe dress with Nani Earrings. I tried almost everything and settled on Elena cuff. Lately cuffs are the pieces I reach for most, it was meant to be.
Agmes — I like to think of Agmes as a cuff hotspot, I’m eyeing Cliff cuff at the moment.
Speak soon,
Victoria xx
Want to come back! It was so nice to see you there, my love!
Great summary and you transported us with you!